The moment when everything calms down and goes into a state of perfect harmony. You don’t hear the traffic or the people shouting or the whirring of a washing machine. You only hear yourself and the subtle sounds of nature, and it feels liberating. A golden fall sun filters through the tall trees and glitters on the rushing river, and you find yourself in an embrace of high mountains. With soaring mountains and braided rivers, the Soča Valley epitomizes Slovenia’s pristine side. Here is a list of hikes in the Soča Valley’s Triglav National Park that you absolutely shouldn’t miss if you love hiking in pristine nature.
In mid November I explored the enchanting valley and the towering Julian Alps on both of its sides. The same as I had done many times before: Twelve hikes in the Soča Valley, Best of Soča Valley in winter, Secret gems of the Soča Valley, A glimpe of WWI on the stunning traverse from Bohinj to the Soča, Where to hike around the Soča Valley.
This time I happened to stay in the Residence Soča, a luxury set of apartments set in the most stunning area of the Upper Soča valley, which despite being a bit pricier than the usual accommodations on my travels, was still an unmistakably good choice. To have such extraordinary beauty within walking distance (or a short drive), and yet to sleep in a comfortable bed, have all needed commodities, clean fresh air when stepping on the wooden deck outside, eat locally sourced delicacies, and hop into a sauna after a long hike felt gratifying to say the least.
Here is a list of hikes in the mountains of the Upper Soča Valley
If most of the valley was already enveloped in a firm grip of winter with temperatures below freezing and a veil of frost covering its shady parts, just a few ten meters above the valley the trails basked in the warmth of an autumn sun. We went from full winter clothes to short sleeves within minutes. Much similar to our ride across the Vršič pass we had taken to arrive at the Soča Valley. If Kranjska Gora woke up all white that morning and frosted trees accompanied us throughout the ride to the top of the pass, as soon as we crossed over to the Trenta side, the nature switched from sparkling white to vibrant brown.
Zadnja Trenta Valley and Zapotok waterfalls
Before we even finished the last of the fifty switchbacks driving down the Vršič Pass, we turned for the Zadnja Trenta Valley, the topmost part of the rugged Trenta Valley, which also happens to be the beginning of the Soča Valley where the world-known Soča River rises. The picturesque valley stretches a few kilometers under mighty 2K peaks of the Western Julian Alps until it hits their foothills sending an unmarked track up along the numerous Zapotok waterfalls (Slo. Zapotoški slapovi).
Hurtling over cliffs and narrow gorges across a 120-meter wall in a thick forest then dressed in autumn colors, the Zapotok falls tend to be the most spectacular particularly during the rainy months in the fall, while they can also create incredible ice sculptures in winter. It’s easy to reach the first waterfall, however the trail up along the following waterfalls becomes more and more difficult until the very last waterfall where you even require climbing skills and preferably the use of ropes.
Great Soča Gorge
Whenever on this side of the Slovenian Alps, my paths in the gorgeous Soča Valley always bring me to the divine Soča River and its Great Soča Gorge, especially after it turned out that my suite at the Residence Soča was just a 3-minute drive away!
The emerald green pools stretch into a 750-m-long gorge, which is only a few meters wide and fifteen meters deep. It winds through a forest, which in spots reveals breathtaking views of the high mountains of the Julian Alps.
Prehodavci and Triglav Lakes
Oh, the breathtaking Triglav Lakes! Recommended by a very friendly receptionist at the Residence Soča, I headed for a loop hike to the mountains a thousand meters up from Trenta and then down along the breathtaking Zadnjica Valley. Somewhere on the way I arrived at a signpost which said that Prehodavci and thus the topmost Triglav Lakes were just an 1.5 hour away, I added that as well. It all added to 1,450 m of ascent and descent in about 17 km – a very tight schedule on a short November day, especially since the hike started at 10:30 am (blame it on the comfy bed of the Residence Soča!). Luckily, after a long guiding season (have you read Best mountain tours of 2024 yet?) my fitness level was sky-high and I could ramp up the pace quite a bit to make up for the late start.
The nature was amazing and it changed from lush forests with rivers, open alpine meadows to completely bare rocky mountains.
Lemovje, Planina nad Sočo, Mali Muzci
Picture a steep hike that climbs 1,520 m in mere 5.1 km but at the same time offers otherworldly views of rugged mountains, valleys and golden forests, and you’ll have a pretty good idea of the hike to Mali Muzci. The best part of the hike? It starts right from our cozy suite at the Residence Soča!
The original plan was to hike to Lemovje, an abandoned old hamlet at 856 m, and then continue to the Planina nad Sočo alpine meadow at 1400 m, altogether doing a bit over 900 m of ascent. Yet it happened that we loved the inviting autumn sun, the surrounding forested hills and rocky mountains, and the undulating trail through fairytale-like forests. Therefore, we simply continued towards the rocky peaks way above until we ran out of time. Yep, you read right. Due to a late start, by the time we reached the altitude of about 2,000 m, it was already 2.30 pm and we only had two more hours of daylight. The top of Bavški Grintavec, a greatly respected mountain among the locals at 2,347 m, basked in perfect sunshine right above us and our hearts sank at the thought of turning back without reaching it. Feeling a bit defeated, we climbed the more accessible second peak of the eastern ridge of Bavški Grintavec called Mali Muzci, 2,026 m, had sandwiches and enjoyed a short break on the last patch of grass. It turned out it was actually an excellent alternative.
Čisti Vrh
After two days of intense hiking in the beautiful but steep mountains of the Upper Soča Valley, we decided to finish our trip with an easier hike to Čisti Vrh, a 1,875-m peak with an expansive panorama of the rugged Western Julian Alps. With an ascent and descent of 922 m in as many as 20 km, the hike packed a lot of distance but the climb itself was very gradual and not technical at all. We felt enamoured by the unparalleled views and diverse landscapes of scenic forests, narrow valleys and towering walls. On a perfectly sunny day it felt like a dream.
Food in the Upper Soča Valley
Not many restaurants operate during off season in these parts of the Soča Valley, but those that do are surprisingly good. To be honest, we cooked on most nights of our stay as the friendly staff at Residence Soča welcomed us with a whole basket of locally produced goodies like smoked pancetta, incredible deer salami, ecological sheep cheese, home-made bread and everything needed for a yummy breakfast, while also a bottle of rosé wine form the wine-bearing Vipava Valley. Wow!
The only restaurant near Bovec that we tried was Bistro 9:45, a small inn with a fine dining experience at a very reasonable price (€50 per person for a good diner with a desert). Highly recommended!
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