When Velika Planina dresses in purple: welcome to endless fields of crocuses

On the southern rim of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps, some thirty kilometers north of Slovenia’s boutique capital Ljubljana, lies a large Alpine plateau called Velika Planina. The place is known not only for its unique shepherds’ settlement, arguably the oldest in Europe that remains active to date, but also for organic milk goodies produced every summer. Locals and tourists alike visit it for its long hiking and biking trails, skiing and sledding in winter, good food and friendly people. Every spring, though, something extraordinary happens: as the snow finally melts sometime in April, little crowns of crocuses flood the whole plateau turning a good part of the landscape purple.

Purple crocuses on Velika Planina, Central Slovenia
Tranquil open plains of Velika Planina colored purple slowly disappearing into a playground of snow-capped peaks. Picture courtesy: Barbara Kandus (thanks!)

The Chapel of Our Lady of the Snow (Kapela Marije Snežne) on Velika Planina
Following the designs of Slovenia’s best architect, Jože Plečnik, the Chapel of Our Lady of the Snow (Kapela Marije Snežne) was first built in 1939 by the shepherds and dairymaids, then unfortunately burnt down during WWII, and finally rebuilt in 1988.
The great peaks of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps and a hut reflecting in one of the many small ponds on Velika Planina, Central Slovenia
The great peaks of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps and a hut reflecting in one of the many small ponds on Velika Planina used for collecting water for the cows.
Carpets of crocuses on Velika Planina
As it happens, I love Velika Planina. I’ve written about it in autumn, summer, and winter, and here I am with yet another post in spring. I can definitely see why though. 😀

Arriving at Velika Planina
The thing is, Velika Planina is not only close to Ljubljana, where I live, but also easily accessible by either car or bus (Ljubljana – Kamnik, Kamnik – Kamniška Bistrica) , bike (see the Kamniška Bistrica trip), and cable car (on the road from Kamnik – Stahovica – Kamniška Bistrica). Of the many trails up to Velika Planina, I prefer these three: either the comfortable short cut by cable car, or the half an hour longer drive to Volovjek Pass, where my other two favorite trails start. The first one by a stone pit after a few-minute drive up a gravel road, and the second one a little further up the same gravel road at the Za Ušivcem parking lot.

Long carpets of crocuses on Velika Planina
The first to bloom, vast carpets of crocus flowers erupt in long meadows of Mala Planina, another pastureland about 30 minutes from Velika Planina.
Crocuses on Mala Planina
If you start your hike from the Volovjek Pass, you can easily include Mala Planina in your hike on the way to Velika Planina. But if you take a cable car, then you’ll first arrive at Velika Planina, while Mala Planina lies some 30 minutes along beautiful hilly pastures.

Za Ušivcem Trail for sunrise
I’m willing to bet that most sunrise seekers on Velika Planina start their adventure from the Za Ušivcem trail. Marked for one hour, it’s the shortest trail up this time of the year (when all the snow on the road melts, the shortest will be from the Dol Plateau), yet it offers a nice round tour including Mala Planina for the way back.

Feeling adventurous this Monday, I explored the Za Ušivcem trail for the first time as part of my first sunrise hike to Velika Planina. To tell you the truth, it’s never a good idea to test new trails at night, but there I was at 4.50 am, heading out there in the complete dark and humming the rhythms of “in the middle of the night…” and “danger zone” to myself. I easily beat my own speed record over a barely visible path in the night through the forest, slowed the pace a bit on a nicely wide trail when out in the open, and finally switched to a more cheerful pace and rhythms by the first signs of the early dawn. Contrary to what you might think, I was actually having great fun. I’d describe it as a thrilling adventure to be alone on an unknown trail during the night and early dawn without really knowing what follows, only to see the first shapes and contours of the hilly landscape around you, and listen to the birds singing. Amazing!

Velika Planina for sunrise

With some snow left on the trail and weak visibility, the direct way to Velika Planina in the early dawn turned out a bit confusing. At 5.50 a.m., after wandering off the otherwise straightforward trail a few times, I reached the wooden oval huts of the most enchanting little Alpine shepherds’ settlement in Slovenia. Even though many of the huts are now private accommodations or rented out to tourists, the whole settlement was still deep asleep for the colorful show of endless carpets of crocuses sparkling in bursting sunrise colors (if I stayed in one, I would definitely not be in bed for the sunrise?!?). Unfortunately, that lasted only for a few short minutes until the clouds ended my private little show.

Crocuses on Velika Planina for sunrise
Currently, the most beautiful spot for crocuses on Velika Planina is directly underneath the Chapel of Our Lady of the Snow.
Velika Planina in spring, Central Slovenia
This picture was taken a week prior to my sunrise hike and this meadow was then pretty much the only one carpeted with flowering crocuses.

Hey, did you know you could actually rent one of those beautiful little huts on Velika Planina? I haven’t tried it yet but I’m definitely putting that on my wish list for 2018! Here are my favorite Velika Planina huts (pets welcome, sauna, shower, terrace with a grill, free Wi-Fi!).

Crocuses on Velika Planina and a dog
Now the whole of Velika Planina has turned into one purple carpet of crocuses.
Velika Planina in spring, crocuses, Central Slovenia
Crocuses, crocuses, crocuses. Pretty unbelievable, isn’t it?

Anyway, have fun, explore the unknown, be adventurous, enjoy the thrills nature offers, and go to Velika Planina. Seriously, the flowers will not be there forever, so I suggest you hurry up!

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For rooms, apartments and holiday houses in Slovenia, you might want to check ViaSlovenia and Apartmaji brez posrednika as they are both super competitive!

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