With the first snowfall this season as early as 13th September I found myself stranded between excitement and annoyance. Not that I don’t like snow, but technically speaking, it was still summer, and that’s when my winter gear is pretty satisfied buried somewhere in the basement. Yet, mountains were calling {like super loud} and I decided to go regardless, only not as high as originally planned. I chose a mountain hut in the midst of Triglav National Park that packs everything. The Vodnik Hut is as romantic as it gets, with a sunny trail curving slowly towards a mountain wonderland, plus with its position at 1,817 m, I knew getting there wouldn’t be a problem even without crampons.
My plan for the first sunny day after a long series of rainy ones? Wake up at 5, drive to Bled first for a quick hike to Ojstrica for my very first sunrise adventure in Bled, then drive further on to Pokljuka, enjoy a hike to Vodnik Hut, and return back to Ljubljana to pick up kids from school by 3.30 pm.
First up: sunrise in Bled from Ojstrica
I always pictured sunrise in Bled would be spectacular, and, ideally (quite silly actually), there would be just me, the lake and Slovenia’s only little island underneath a playground of snow-capped peaks bathing in those soft morning colors. As it turned out, many of us thought the same as that little perch above Bled turned out pretty crowded with professional and amateur photographers. Once I reserved a spot in the front row, the show was beyond stunning. In fact, I was enchanted to the point my bucket list grew by one more wish: to experience sunset in Bled as well!
Vodnik Hut from Pokljuka
From Rudno Polje, where I finally parked my car at 8 am, the trail was marked 3.5 hours. Vodnik Hut is one of those long scenic hikes, summing to some 16 kilometers and an ascent of about 800-900 meters (a return trip). Not a staggering ascent, but a nice moderate one with exactly one steeper part ascending 350 m up to a mountain pass Studorski Preval. Once past that point, you’re looking at as easy walk across steep slopes of Tosc with amazing views. The further you go, the more spectacular the views; from green peaks above lake Bohinj and Komna, to beautiful peaks of Julian Alps and finally the hut lying underneath Triglav.
Here is a short time-lapse video of Vodnik Hut:
Tips for hiking Vodnik Hut
If you’re thinking about repeating the hike yourself, here are a few tips you should read before heading out. Quick stats for a return trip: 6 hours, 16 km, 800-900 m ascent and descent. Perfect for trail running, landscape photography, and great as an easy few-hour hike or combined with an additional trek in Triglav National Park or Triglav itself. Hike it with kids if you trust them enough not to fool around on the trail (I’d easily take my 8-year-old daughter but probably not my 5-year-old son). Winter conditions might complicate things up as the extremely steep slopes the trail crosses are prone to avalanches. Contacts and detailed description of the hut.
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